The houses behind the finest ties
A designer tie usually carries the visual language of its house, so start with the style of the person you are buying for.
- Hermès in Paris is known for printed silk twill ties with small, playful repeating motifs that read as a neat pattern from a distance.
- Gucci, founded in Florence, often draws on its green-red-green Web stripe, the GG monogram and the horsebit. Browse ideas in our guide to Gucci ties.
- Prada in Milan tends towards clean, graphic restraint: solid colours, fine geometrics and precise construction. See our notes on Prada ties.
- Ermenegildo Zegna, with its roots in Italian wool weaving, and the Paris shirtmaker Charvet are both respected for their silks and colour.
For a first luxury tie, a quiet pattern or solid in navy, burgundy or grey will see the most wear. Save bolder prints for someone who already owns the basics.
Silk, weave and construction: what to look for
The fabric decides how a tie looks, knots and lasts.
- Printed silk twill has a smooth, slightly lustrous surface and carries colour and fine detail well.
- Woven jacquard silk builds the pattern into the cloth, giving more depth and a firmer knot.
- Grenadine is an open, gauze-like weave with a subtle texture. It is breathable and versatile, from boardroom to wedding.
- Knitted silk has a squared end and a relaxed feel, ideal with a blazer or open collar.
- Wool, cashmere, linen and cotton suit seasonal dressing. In a South African summer, when Christmas parties and weddings fall in the heat, lighter silks, grenadine and linen are the more comfortable choice.
Good construction shows in the details: a tie cut on the bias so it hangs straight, a hand-finished slip stitch along the back, and a lining that lets it recover its shape. Seven-fold ties, folded from a single piece of silk without lining, are a mark of craftsmanship and feel noticeably fuller.
Width, length and finding the right fit
Proportion matters more than most buyers expect.
- Width: match the tie to the lapel and the wearer's build. A classic width suits most suits and frames; slimmer ties look sharper on narrow lapels and slighter builds.
- Length: when tied, the tip should reach the belt buckle. Most luxury ties are cut to a standard length, but tall men or those who favour larger knots may need an extra-long cut. A quick look at one of his existing ties is the most reliable guide.
- Collar: a wide spread collar suits a fuller knot and a slightly heavier silk; a point collar works with a slimmer tie.
Pairing a tie with a matching leather piece from our belts and other accessories makes for a considered, complete gift.
Caring for a silk tie and giving it well
A fine tie lasts for years with a little attention.
- Undo the knot by reversing the steps rather than pulling the narrow end through.
- Hang it or roll it loosely overnight so creases relax before the next wear.
- Avoid direct ironing; a gentle steam from a distance is safer. Leave stains to a specialist cleaner.
Ties work for many occasions: a new role, a wedding, a milestone birthday or a business thank-you. For more ideas, see our gifts for him, or our corporate gifts for clients and colleagues. If you have a particular house, colour or pattern in mind, tell us what you are looking for and we will come back with options.