Yves Saint Laurent: A Gift Guide to the Paris House

Yves Saint Laurent founded his couture house in Paris with his partner Pierre Bergé in the early 1960s, and within a few years he had changed how women dressed. Le Smoking, his tuxedo for women, put evening tailoring on the female body; the safari jacket, the trench and the pea coat followed the same thinking. He was also one of the first couturiers to open a ready-to-wear boutique, Rive Gauche, making his designs part of everyday Paris life.

The interlocking YSL monogram, drawn by the graphic artist Cassandre, remains the house's signature. Today the fashion label reads Saint Laurent Paris, while older pieces carry the full Yves Saint Laurent name. YSL beauty and fragrance are run separately from the fashion house, so this guide focuses on leather goods, shoes and clothing.

Saint Laurent's current identity is lean, dark and nocturnal: black leather, gold or silver hardware, slim tailoring and a rock-and-roll edge. A few lines come up again and again:

• Bags: the Kate, a slim chain-strap clutch with the metal monogram; the quilted Loulou; the structured Sac de Jour; the softer, slightly worn-in Niki; and the compact Le 5 à 7 shoulder bag. Browse the shapes in our guide to Saint Laurent bags.
• Heels: the Opyum, whose heel is shaped like the YSL letters, and the strappy Tribute sandal are the house's best-known shoes. See more in Saint Laurent heels.
• Tailoring and leather: the women's tuxedo jacket, narrow-cut suits and the biker jacket carry the house's DNA most directly.
• Small leather goods: card holders, wallets and key pouches, often in textured grain de poudre leather with the monogram in metal.

A first gift from the house works best when it is something the recipient will use daily and that shows the monogram with restraint. Good starting points:

1. A card holder or wallet. Small, personal and easy to get right without knowing anyone's size. Our guide to Saint Laurent wallets covers the formats, from slim card cases to zip-around styles.
2. A small bag. A Kate or Le 5 à 7 suits someone who already dresses up; a Niki suits someone more relaxed.
3. Sneakers. Clean leather court styles are a quieter way into the house and a good choice for a partner or adult son. See Saint Laurent sneakers.
4. A statement heel for a birthday or anniversary, only if you know her size and the height she actually wears.

For a colleague or client, keep to small leather goods in black or a neutral; they read as considered rather than personal.

Saint Laurent shoes use European sizing, and fit varies by style: pointed pumps and sandals with fine straps can feel narrower than sneakers. If you are buying shoes as a surprise, check a pair the recipient already owns from a European house. Ready-to-wear, especially menswear tailoring and Saint Laurent clothing such as leather jackets, tends to a slim, close cut, so many people take their usual size or one up for layering.

For care:

• Store bags stuffed with tissue in their dust bag, away from direct sun.
• Keep leather out of a hot car in summer; heat can mark smooth leather and dry it out.
• Textured grain de poudre leather resists scratches better than smooth calfskin, which is worth knowing for a bag that will be used every day.
• Wipe metal monograms with a soft dry cloth rather than polish.

Because the house is widely copied, check the details before buying from any seller. On genuine pieces, stitching is even and tight, edges are neatly finished, and hardware feels weighty rather than hollow. The YSL monogram has precise proportions, with the letters overlapping in a specific order; misshapen or uneven letters are a warning sign. Interior stamps should be crisp and well aligned. A deal that seems far below the norm usually is.

On budget, the order is broadly consistent: card holders and small leather goods are the most accessible entry point, sneakers and heels sit above them, and bags and leather outerwear cost considerably more. Exchange rates and import duties affect what you pay in rand, so set a ceiling first and choose the category that fits it.

If you have a particular piece, colour or size in mind, tell us what you are looking for and we will come back to you with options.