Expensive Watches: Choosing a Luxury Timepiece as a Gift

A luxury watch is valued for how it is made, not just for telling the time. Three things separate a fine timepiece from an everyday one.

• The movement. Mechanical movements are powered by a wound mainspring, either by hand or, in an automatic, by the motion of the wrist. Quartz movements run on a battery and are highly accurate. Many collectors prize mechanical calibres for the craftsmanship inside.
• Finishing and materials. Polished and brushed case surfaces, applied indices, sapphire crystals and bracelets that close with precision all take time and skill. Cases come in steel, titanium, ceramic, gold or platinum.
• Complications. Any function beyond hours, minutes and seconds counts as a complication: a date, chronograph, moon phase or second time zone. The tourbillon, a rotating cage designed to counter the effects of gravity on the balance, is one of the most demanding to make and sits at the top of the price scale.

Swiss made remains the best-known mark of fine watchmaking, and most of the houses below are based in Switzerland, with Cartier the notable Parisian exception.

Each house has a clear character, which makes it easier to match a watch to a person.

• Rolex, based in Geneva, is known for the waterproof Oyster case and icons such as the Submariner, Datejust and Day-Date. Explore Rolex watches as gifts.
• Omega, from Biel, is closely tied to the Speedmaster Moonwatch and the Seamaster diving line. See our guide to Omega watches.
• Cartier brought jeweller's design to the wrist with the rectangular Tank and the square Santos, both still defining dress watches. Read more on Cartier watches.
• TAG Heuer is rooted in motor racing, with the Carrera and the square Monaco chronographs.
• Breitling is associated with aviation, above all the Navitimer and its slide-rule bezel.
• Hublot is known for the Big Bang and its fusion of unexpected materials such as ceramic, rubber and gold.
• Rado has long specialised in scratch-resistant high-tech ceramic.
• Raymond Weil, a family business in Geneva, offers refined, music-inspired designs at a more accessible level.
• Jacob & Co. sits at the theatrical end, with gem-set cases and elaborate complications. See Jacob & Co. watches.

Start with the wearer's daily life rather than the brand. A sports or dive watch on a steel bracelet suits someone who wears it to the office, the gym and the braai. A slim dress watch on leather suits someone who wears suits or keeps a watch for evenings out.

Size matters more than most buyers expect. Case diameter, measured in millimetres without the crown, should sit comfortably within the wrist; the lugs should not overhang. If you can, note the size of a watch they already wear. Bracelets can usually be adjusted by removing links, so length is less of a worry than case size.

Our guides to men's watches and women's watches go further into proportions, styles and straps. Many designs are worn by everyone, so let taste lead rather than category.

Prices for luxury watches in South Africa are shaped by several factors:

1. The house and the model line. Icons with long waiting lists command more.
2. Case material. Steel is the starting point; gold, platinum and precious ceramics raise the price considerably.
3. The movement and complications. An in-house automatic costs more than quartz, and chronographs, perpetual calendars and tourbillons add significantly.
4. Gem setting. Diamond bezels and dials add both value and cost.
5. The exchange rate. Most fine watches are priced in Swiss francs or euros, so local prices move with the rand.

As a broad, hedged guide, watches from established Swiss houses generally start in the tens of thousands of rand, while precious metals and high complications can run far higher. Decide on a ceiling first, then choose the best watch within it rather than stretching for a name.

With expensive watches, provenance matters. Look for the original box and papers, a serial number that matches the documentation, and a clear history. Be wary of anything that seems priced well below the norm.

Care is straightforward:

• Wear or wind a mechanical watch regularly, and follow the maker's guidance on servicing intervals.
• Have water resistance checked before swimming, especially on older pieces.
• Keep it away from strong magnets such as speakers and phone cases with clasps.

Watches suit milestones: a 21st, graduation, promotion, retirement or wedding, and they are a classic choice among anniversary gifts. An engraved caseback makes the moment personal. If you have a particular model or budget in mind, tell us what you are looking for and we will come back with options.